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DOSSIER GREECE
ENCHANTING SAMOS


Text and Photos by TERESA CARRUBBA

A cradle of culture and of genius in a land
blessed by the charisma of mythology

The sunset in Samos

Anyone who is attracted by nature loves Samos for its uncontaminated nature, which is the reflection of an ancient land, but also for the more than one thousand different species of trees which grow on the island. Anyone who is looking for the sea comes to Samos for its reserved beaches, spectacular bays, and sunsets which turn the water into a sea of fire. Anyone who loves history come here to retrace the footsteps of the mathematician Pythagoras and those of Polycrates, the most "ingenious" tyrant of antiquity and to discover the many archaeological sites which are scattered all over the island among fascinating mountain vistas which create a magical atmosphere.
Gourmets know Samos for its Mediterranean flavours, for its intense perfumes and for its history infused with dishes which have been passed down from family to family losing none of their traditional charm. And for its sweet wine, the famous Muscat wine of Samos, which has a world-wide reputation and is on sale in good wine stores even in Italy. And is used by the Vatican for religious celebrations. And then what can one say about the national drink, the ouzo, which is the feather in the island’s cap? You make new friends and cultivate old ones over a glass of ouzo and a plate of sun-dried octopus or sipping the retzina resinous wine with a fresh green salad or a slice of feta cheese.

Kostitas Nissi

To enjoy the beauty of Samos a holiday must last at least 15 days. Just to visit it takes a full week but in this case it is a good idea to trace out the four most interesting areas: Karlovassi is the first port you encounter on the island coming from the North or Piraeus; Samos (Vathy) slightly north of the strait which unites to Turkey, is the administrative seat and capital of the island (and the terminus of the Piraeus-Samos route); sparking Kokkari west of Samos on the North-Western coast and along the ridge which links the capital to Karlovassi (a highway) and Pythagorion (Tigani), the bustling hub of the local tourist industry and of the Aegean Sea with its many attractions and with accommodation of all types. At Karlovassi, there is Kambos, the little port overlooking the South-West coast, the sea port of Marathocambos, the most important town of western Samos. A must for visitors and a gem of nature. And the same is true for the small towns along the northern coast: Agios Kostandinos and Avlakia which snuggle under the flank of the mountains.

The waterfalls in the Potami's wood

To the North springs feed waterways which along their way become stunning waterfalls, like the famous falls of Potami in the Karlovassi region which are in an atmospheric wood which shelters an ancient little church. The Southern coast is quieter with the main sandy beaches and most important tourist resorts: south-east of Karvounis, in the region of Pythagorion, and west of the mountain range, we come to the little Marathokambos plain which lies at the feet of the Karvounis and of th Kerketeas. Marathokambos, which is 13 kilometres from Karlovasi, is one of the largest towns on the island and its port. Omos, attracts a lot of tourists to its long Votsalakia and Psili Ammos beaches.

The wonderful beach of Psili Ammos
close to Marathocampos

The ancient city of Samos was located exactly where Pythagorion is today. Even the modern port, which is the emblem of the island, is built on the ruins of the ancient port. Many traces of the old city walls, built by Polycrates, which were 6,220 metres long and had 35 towers and 12 gates, can still be admired today. As can ruins of houses dating back to Hellenistic days with the typical columned portico, the tribunes of an old theatre and remains of Roman and Byzantine buildings. In the same city, on the Casteli hills, we find the Castle of Logothetis, the old Church of the Saviour and the ruins of the old Astypalaia fort. The objects brought to light from excavations of various periods such as statues and archaic funeral objects of the same century, now in the museum in Pythagorion, are of particular interest.
Pythagorion, which lies south-east of Samos, is in a strategic position from which to organise excursions to the nearby Greek islands from the semi-deserted beach, with only a few, extremely hospitable, inhabitants and where you can enjoy the delicious local cuisine. And it is from here that you can take a boat to visit Ephesus in Turkey, for a day trip with a guide to one of the most famous archaeological sites of the Greek civilisation. Samos is close to the beautiful little island of Patmos, a nature and religions attraction where you can visit the cave in which St. John wrote the "Apocalypse," with the famous premonitions regarding the end of the world.

The enchanting beach of Kokkari

Some ten kilometres from Samos (Vathy), we come to Kokkari the capital and the most picturesque port in Samos, now a lively tourist resort which blends nature with jet-setting. A kind of peninsula with houses clinging onto a hillside, the port on one side and a magnificent sandy beach on the other with rocky outcroppings which break up the glowing colours of breathtaking sunsets across the surface of the water. And then, at night, the natural light takes a bow and leaves the stage to the neon signs of the trendy cafes which, like a colourful necklace, wind their way around the port.
From Kokkari we can discover charming little villages like Platanakia, Valeodates and Staurinides, and delight in the superb beauty of this island, often overlooking sheer drops down to the sea. Two of Samos’s most beautiful bays, Lemonakia e Tsamadou, are in the environs..

The pritty Kokkari's harbour
at the sunset

The second largest city is Karlovassi, with a handsome port and divided into five parts: the old city, middle and new Karlovassi, the city and the port. In the past it was the commercial and industrial capital of Samos and, before the last war, it enjoyed a period of well-being thanks to the tanning industry. Strolling around the city you can still see traces of its glorious past in the many wealthy traditional homes and sumptuous monuments. The entire area has maintained many traces of traditional architecture like the superb Church of the Holy Trinity which dominates the green hill of old Karlovasi. Four kilometres east of Karlovassi we find Potami, one of the most beautiful beaches on Samos. An ideal place to enjoy a relaxing stroll and at the end of the beach the road leads to another two enchanting spots: Mikro and Megalo Saitani, the refuge of the Mediterranean seals.

Potami Bay

And so Samos can be divided into two main areas: the Vathy - Pythagorion - Heraion axis to the south-east and the other area which stretches along the state road which leads from Samos ( o Vathy ) to Karovassi (Kamara) with a deviation for Marathokambos. The first tour is favoured by the presence of the main port (Vathy) and by the airport (Pithagorion). The southern coast has a sea which is protected from the winds and therefore suitable for families and for those who want to enjoy a truly relaxing holiday – the hotels are of a good level. For the more dynamic holidaymaker we suggest taking the other route. The sea is deeper, the vegetation more intense and nature is rockier and more arduous. The road is good as far as Karlovassi and has many side roads leading off to the tiny bays around Kokari, Avlakia and Agios Kostandinos. Excursions on the Kerketeas, which lies beyond Karlovassi, are also more adventurous thanks to the network of blacktop roads which suddenly become white and disappear into the woods along the mountainsides.
Samos is not only an island with a wealth of culture and splendid vistas, it is also known as the island of good living. An island where you can find a crowded beach if you are looking for company but also truly deserted beaches. An island where you can visit tiny mountain villages where time seems to have stood still and where people still make their way around on mules.

The coast towards Potami

Historically Samos is an offshoot of Ephesus, one of the most populated cities of ancient and Roman times which left very well conserved traces just north of Kusadasi in Turkey, which is a mere stone’s throw away from Samos. Like Ephesus Samos too enjoyed a period of splendour which lasted up to the Byzantine Medieval and Proto-Christian era. And, like Ephesus, it was inhabited in the late Neolithic period by Doric peoples and became an important religious centre from the days of Mycenae, with the foundation of the Heraion, the temple of the goddess Hera who, it would seem, was born here. The temple was one of the most striking in antiquity, it was 108.73 meters long and was surrounded by 133 columns one of which has been left standing. Samos attained its highest level of prosperity during the classical era and during the 20-year monocratic reign of Polycrates.

Heraion - The temple dedicated
to the goddes Hera

The innovative construction of the Samena, a fleet of small ships piloted by sixty oars, and which was extremely effective during naval battles, dates back to those days. But it was during that period that the island owed its fame to some great men of science and of the techniques of the times, first and foremost to Pythagoras, the philosopher and mathematician, then to the well-known architects Roikos and Teodoro (responsible for the sumptuous walls of the town and the extension done on the Heraion, destroyed by the Persian sackings) and then to Efpalinos, the architect who finished one of the most amazing canal systems of antiquity - the tunnel which is called after him is a kilometre and three hundred metres long. Built to provide water for the town on thee other side of the mountain. But Polycrates was a tyrant and to complete the costly works on the aqueduct he waged war against Lesbos and forced its inhabitants to forced labour in the tunnels. He was not at all fond of rebellions and it was because to him that Pythagoras had to seek exile in Italy.

Pope Nikiforos in the Monastry
of Agia Zoni

HOW TO GET TO SAMOS
Flying with OLYMPIC AIRWAYS is the best way to get to Samos, thanks also to the safety standards and professionalism of the Greek airline. You have to make a stop-over in Athens and this is a good opportunity to visit the magnificent, new airport, fruit of the preparation for the 2004 Olympics. You can get there from: Athens, by air, 4 flights a day. Makes your reservations early. The flight lasts 45 minutes. There are boats from Piraeus (the crossing lasts 15 hours on the Piraeus - Ikaria - Karlovassi - Vathy Samou route) and Rafina, in the morning and the evening. There are 2 weekly flighs from Salonica and sea crossings from Salonica twice a week and from the Macedonian port of Kavala. From all the Dodecanese and from the main Cyclades islands. From Kusadasi (in Turkey), Chios and Lesvos.
Port authority: Vathy, tel. 27318, Karlovassi, tel. 32343, Pithagorio, tel. 81225.


OLYMPIC AIRWAYS
tel. 06/47867334 (Rome)
02/878692 (Milan),
from 09.00 to 17.00, excluding Saturdays and Sundays.

info@olympic-airways.it

www.olympic-airways.gr


Telephone Code 02730


Vathy
Municipality: 27340, 28582
Archaeological Museum: 27469
Byzantine and Ecclesiastical Museum: 27312
General Hospital: 27407, 27426
Police: 27404, 27980
Port Authority: 27890, 27318
E.O.T: 28530
O.T.E. (Telephone Company): 28499
E.L.T.A. (Post Office): 27304
Buses: 27262
Taxi: 28404